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女孩們的夢想職業:時尚造型師

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編者按:每個年代的女孩子都有自己的夢想職業。從50年代的 “空中小姐”,60年代的T臺模特;再到70年代的高雅音樂家,80年代的職業女性;到了90年代,公共關係又成了熱門職業。不過現在,大多數女孩子們都想成爲時尚造型師(fashion stylist)。

女孩們的夢想職業:時尚造型師

對於一個熱衷時尚的女孩來說,究竟什麼纔是她夢寐以求的工作呢?模特?不,或許那隻屬於身材瘦削的節食女孩。可以確定她們的答案之一是時尚造型師。 For a girl who's interested in fashion, what would be the dream job? Being a model? Probably no–that's for a pencil thin who doesn't eat. One answer is, fashion stylist.

越來越多的品牌爲了擴大自身市場,紛紛在中國開設;戶外廣告不斷增多,這或許也點燃了女孩心中渴望成爲一名造型師的熱情。時尚雜誌公司裏滿是實習生的身影,各時尚品牌的人事經理也收到數以千計申請造型師職位的個人簡歷。 As more brands open stores in China to expand their reach, the increase in outdoor advertising might light a stylist spark in a girl's heart. Fashion magazine offices are crowded with interns, and fashionable brand HR managers get thousands of resumes of people looking for a stylist position.

“之前這個職業看上去是那麼的高不可攀,但現在我發現它變得更加觸手可及,”畢業於復旦大學中文專業,現於上海愛馬仕任助理造型師,現年22歲的薛瑞表示。“在裝扮模特方面,並無具體原則;你可以依據個人品位,嘗試所有方法,使她(他)們變得漂亮且引人注目。” "It looked too high before, but now I find it more approachable," said Xue Rui, 22, a Fudan University Chinese literature grad who works as an assistant stylist at Hermès in Shanghai. "There is no certain principle in dressing up models, and you can try every way with your own distinct taste to make them pretty and attractive."

一些專業人士表示薛瑞的話並沒有錯。“直覺告訴我,時尚已不再那麼高高在上。人們已經意識到時尚是一個百萬美元的行業,因此必須設法使它親近人們的生活,”來自倫敦的造型師兼雜誌編輯Katie Grand向《倫敦時報》表示。 Some professionals say that Xue's not mistaken. "My gut feeling is that fashion has stopped being so elitist. People have learnt that fashion can be a multimillion-dollar business, and with that you have to have a certain approachability," Katie Grand, a stylist and magazine editor based in London, told the London Times.

此項工作的魅力不僅僅在於各式各樣,美輪美奐的服裝。並且它也不再像過去那般:一份圈內人士的工作,沒有讚譽,甚至薪水也少得可憐。如今造型師是一個分工明確,前途光明且薪水可觀的職業。 The attractiveness of this line of work is not only in the fabulous clothes. And it's not like it used to be: an insider's job with little recognition and even less money. Now it's a career with a profile, prospects and pay packet.

“時尚雜誌的造型師享有一些獨一無二的權力。你能夠有機會去接觸名人們,並按照個人喜好來打造他們的`造型,”《L'officiel Hommes》雜誌中文版主編成泓表示。“你需要同頂級攝影師合作,並在世界範圍內挑選攝影場地。你或許還會受邀參加一些頂級品牌的時尚發佈會,挑選一些自己喜愛的服裝。” "A stylist at a fashion magazine can have some unique rights. You have a chance to contact celebrities and dress them up in a style you like," said Cheng Hong, chief editor of the Chinese version of L'officiel Hommes magazine. "You need to cooperate with top photographers and select places around the world to take photos in. You might also be invited to fashion shows of top brands and can select some of the favorite clothes. "

“薪水可以讓你買得起一些進階服裝,而且由於你的名字和照片會出現在雜誌頁面上,讀者們也會記住你的時尚貼士。” "The salary can allow you to buy luxury clothes and, with your name and photo appearing on pages, readers will remember your fashion tips."更多資訊請訪問:

女孩們感到自己無法抗拒這一誘惑,這一領域不僅僅侷限於造型和時尚設計專業,同時也向一些普通女孩們敞開了大門。“時尚設計師懂得如何做出漂亮的衣服,但造型師卻懂得如何從頭到腳將一個人裝扮得美豔動人,”北京服裝學院時裝設計專業大三學生,21歲的何慶解釋說。 Girls can find it hard to ignore this allure and the field is opening up to normal girls, not only style or fashion design majors. "A fashion designer knows how to make a dress pretty, but a stylist knows how to make a person beautiful, from head to toe," explained He Qing, 21, a junior in fashion design at the Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology.

“你必須做一個‘多面手’:從髮型,妝容,再到衣服,鞋子以及與活動相關的配飾,”他說。“你必須要清楚每一件事,同時還要處理一些事情。真的很有挑戰性。這也是我熱愛這份職業的原因。” "You have to be ‘all-round': from hair and make up to clothes, shoes, and accessories to the event," said He. "You have to know everything, and handle several things at the same time. It's challenging. That's why I love it."

然而,無論你把它想象得多麼的完美,這份職業還是存在其弊端,“這是一項異常艱鉅的工作,”《Elle》雜誌中文版造型師陳倩珠說。“你需要和各式各樣的人建立良好關係——有明星、攝影師、公關經理、其他媒體,甚至一些航空公司。” It's not, however, without its downside, no matter how great you may think it is, "It's incredibly hard work," said Chen Qianzhu, a stylist at the Chinese version of Elle magazine. "You need to build good relations with various people–stars, photographers, PR managers, other media, even airlines."

“你需要在工作現場看管各式服裝;如果弄髒它們,哪怕只是一個小小的污跡,你都要爲此支付賠償,陳茜珠說。“最糟糕的是,你可能廢寢忘食地工作了一個星期,只爲了幾組重要照片;但如果主編不滿意,你將全部返工。” You need to take care of clothes in the workplace and pay for even a tiny spot you get on them, Chen said. "The worst thing is that you might work extremely hard for a week on some serious photos, but if the chief's not satisfied, you do them all over again."

即便如此,薪水仍然得不到保證。“同那些每天進賬幾千英鎊的時尚造型師相比,有太多太多的同行難以維生,這些人的確是沒有報酬,”美版《Vogue》的特約編輯,《Stylist: Interpreters of Fashion》一書的作者Sarah Mower曾表示。 And even then, the pay's not guaranteed. "There are far, far more starving fashion stylists–literally working for no money –than those making thousands of pounds a day," according to Sarah Mower, contributing editor to American Vogue and author of Stylist: Interpreters of Fashion.

所以,女孩們切記,別怪我沒提醒你。 So, remember girls, you've been warned.